Could France learn to love British beef?

France is famous for its gastronomy, while poking fun at British food is a Gallic pastime. There was also no love lost between French and British farmers in the wake of the BSE crisis. So why is a top Paris butcher now lauding British beef?

In a converted cellar, a man with unruly hair, seven-day stubble and a bloodied apron is cutting up meat.

The ease with which the knife cuts the thick steaks is impressive. And the white marbling of fat is not what you're used to seeing. Not in France anyway.

The man is Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec, butcher to the stars.